Poi Pet, Cambodia

Tuesday, May 6, 08
Taking a charter bus to the Thailand/Cambodia border, we arrive around noon. We arrive near the border. A tuk tuk ride brings us to the Cambodian consulate where we are awarded a visa. On, John and I in one and Stewart and Claire in another, to the Thai border. Clearing that hurdle, we walk the 1/8 no-man's land to the other side of the bridge. There we are greeted with casinos and the haggling begins. It appears there is a man assigned to us. He directs us to where we fill in the arrival/departure card and have our passports and visas stamped. This yellow shirted, young man then directs us to a shuttle bus which he says is to take us to the bus station. All the time, being seriously questioned, he claims to be working for the Cambodian Ministry of Tourism. The shuttle takes us a mile through mud slopped streets, the rain has just passed, and deposits us at a door in a strip of shops. In our book we have read that the mafia controls taxis and bus service into the country. TRUE!! When we are instructed that the ride to Battambang will be $40 US, we walk away. The heat is stifling and the wind non-existent. Stewart says he thinks he remembers where the bus station is. We walk. Appearing before us is the yellow shirt, young man. He tells us that we are headed the wrong way, will not find anything better, and generally laughs at us. We walk past with him in following. Needing something to drink, and time to collect our thoughts, we stop at a small shop and order 4 cokes. As we drink in walks a man who says he will take us to Battambang. How much? $40. We ask him how he knew we were headed to Battambang? He doesn't reply. Understanding that this man, following continued effort at communication, is a visual learner, I pull out a piece of paper and pen and write; 4 people, Battambang, $30. (Here I need to say that although Cambodian money is Real at 4000 R to $1, the preferred currency is US dollars. All store and food prices are in USD) As we are finished, we leave him sitting and continue walking. The heat is building! Sweat is drenching us. The now crested road is swirling red dust. We walk. Ahead, approaching, is the yellow shirt young man. Now I'm pissed. He follows and laughs at us. I ask him not to follow us. Or rather, tell him. He says this is Cambodia and he can go where he likes. He's right, of course! We continue. Suddenly, there in front of a Camry with the hood up, is the taxi driver who we left at the coke shop. He says he will do it for $30. Again, going through the full routine, we all agree. The yellow shirted man gets some money from the driver and he's ready. Sitting in front is John riding shotgun. I'm behind him. As we climb in, I make the mistake of putting my hand in the door and he slams it on my left ring finger. "Open the door, John." He does, the fingernail immediately begins turning red. An appropriate finish to Poi Pet - 1 hour of lessons.