Friday, June 20, 2008

Auroville, India

Thursday, June 19, 08
Today, I have planned a visit to Auroville.
At the Autocare Department, north 2 streets from Jain Street, then 2 doors west, I find a small room. Pressed against the back wall are 2 desks with the sides of the room lined with benches. Inside, I buy my ticket to Auroville and back, Rs 60. Departure is 2:00. Return around 5:45. One Western woman sits opposite me, I'm seated on the right near the opening, and 15 locals occupy the remaining space, standing and sitting. Outside 4 more, plus the driver, stand under two trees looking looking for shade. Maps of Pondy and Auroville, along with photos of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother cover the walls. A small AC unit attempts to cool the room - not much help. Outside is a 24 passenger blue and white bus with "Contract Carriage" across the front. We wait, sweating!
Auroville is not a tourist attraction. Built, a project in "human unity" it is spread over 20 km. with 2000 residents from 39 countries. At the physical and spiritual center of this community is the Matri Mandir, a golden dome of meditation. Inside is the largest crystal (70cm) in the world surrounded by white marble. Casual visitors, such as I, are not allowed inside except with special permission which I don't have.
Arriving at the information center, the group is shown a video of the origins of Auroville and the creation of the Matri Mandir. Then, walking the 1 km, we stand on a small knoll and glance from a distance. Even from here, the size and stature of such an undertaking is felt.
Someone near me asks what I'm feeling. Feeling? There is a sense in me that the dome should be open so that the light can shine - more like a lotus.
The return trip is to visit a Kali temple - no photos allowed. All men are told to remove their shirts, down to bare chests, and shoes, naturally, and walk down steps into an interior chamber. Cost Rs 1. Here, standing along a railing we gaze at the image of Kali the Destroyer. An attendant walks among us placing red kumkum powder on our foreheads or in our palms. This is my first forehead powder since arriving in India, a very common sight. Retrieving my banian and kurta, flip flops later, we are led to a symbol of Lord Shiva and then to look at the standing image of Kali, 73 m tall.
Back in Pondy, I have a cup of coffee and walk the waterfront home.

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