Long House and Totem

Tuesday, March 18, 08
Yesterday, while at the Freeport office working with my police requirements, Iain and I talked with Kalman who informs us that there is a long house built and totem erected 30 minutes from Timika, among the Kamoro people. With our interests piqued, Iain, the three boys, and I leave to find the village. After asking twice for directions, we arrive at the site and step into a fascinating hour with the men of the village. The last time there was such an initiation for young boys was 5 years ago. Again, the gods have been smiling on my walkabout. When a sufficient number of boys is ready, the leader of the village gives the word for a totem to be built. While the totem is being built by the designate, the rest of the men enter the jungle to search out, and bring to the site, the correct wood and branches. All of this is done with the utmost care and with known specifics. The outside of the long house is drawn with symbols which are the totem for the different boys - lizards, wild pigs, crocodiles, and birds. The father and maternal uncle are the ones who are specifically involved in each boy's initiation. A pig is killed by each boy's family and placed inside the long house on a ledge. The long house is entered, a flap is drawn and sealed, and a fire is lit inside and out. This entering takes place prior to dawn, while it is still dark. The father and maternal uncle sit with the boy and paint him with ochre. The mothers are not permitted during this part of the ritual, and sit by themselves wailing. They are losing their sons to manhood. When at noon the flaps are removed, the maternal uncle in front and the father behind the boy, they hop across the threshold. Once out, the boy climbs a pole and retrieves a grass skirt. He is now a man. While the men of the village explain the ritual, they ask if Iain's older two sons, Yali and Sami, would like to be involved in the initiation. Iain asks, but the two boys are leery. In previous times, at the end of the ritual, a bone was used to pierce the nose of each boy. That has been put aside for a squeezing of the nose. Saying good-bye, we head back and have lunch, do some shopping and arrive back home mid-afternoon.