Kakadu National Park

Sunday, March 23, 08
Picked up at 7:15, I am chauffeured into Kakadu National Park. First is a stop in Pine Creek to ring the park and find if the road is passable. We had hoped to drive to Daly River Aboriginal Settlement, but that road is under water. The main road is open but many of the side roads are closed for the next month, or more, and have been for months. Any communities behind those closures are cut off. After 30 minutes, we stop for an ice cream at the Mary River Roadhouse, also known as Wirrwirnmila. On up past names like Bukbukluk, Gerowie Creek, Gungurul, Barramundie Gorge (Maguk), Jim Jim Billabong, Alligator Billabong, Mardugal, up to where we find rooms for the night at Gagudju Cooinda Lodge, near the Yellow Water. With that detail secured, we continue on to Nourlangie Rock. Pat stays at the car while I hike the 1 1/2 km, stopping repeated at the rock painting till arriving at a lookout. Returning, I again visit each painting site and on to the parking lot. This escarpment belonged to an indigenous tribe which has vanished. For at least 20,000 years those people visited this escarpment and rock shelter during the rainy, hot season. The shelters, or camp sites, are under rock overhangs which are markedly cooler. All through this region are the rock paintings and depictions of Aboriginal stories. With the tribe gone, the neighboring tribes have taken over the management of these sacred grounds.
Returning to Gagudji Cooinda Lodge, I walk to Jim Jim Creek where I participate in a 2 hour cruise of the wetlands. We see a crocodile, Whistling Kites, Sea Eagles, Lorrakeets, Rainbow Bee Eaters, Honey Eaters, Whistling ducks, Kukaburra, Jabiru (large storks), Corellas, Sulfur Crested Cockatoos, Snake Neck Darters, and others. On a side-the Aborigines believe that upon death the Sea Eagle swoops down and gathers the departed taking his spirit into the stars. There is spear grass, which looks like its name. It is also known as "Knock 'em Down" grass since it dries in the summer time, turning brown. With the first rain, it is knocked flat onto the ground where the seeds sprout during the next wet season. It is also known for housing homeless persons who use it as beds.
Dinner is a salad, potato wedges, and an orange juice. With lightning flashing we bid each other good night. I sleep with the shades open to see the flashes. These storms can be massive dumping 10 inches or more very rapidly.