Is it that the people here have such a fatalistic belief in life-if Allah wills it-that lets them drive as they do. Or, is it that they drive as they do and need to have a fall back belief in-if Allah wills it.
From my Medan hotel I take a taxi to where I am to meet up with Anna and Shannon. After we drive for 15 minutes, he pulls over and tells me that where I want to go is right around the corner. I pay him the requested $3 and find myself totally lost. After calling Anna we realize I am now in the opposite direction from them. I begin walking, looking for a taxi. No taxi. Finding a security guard, who works at a corporate office bulding, he is delighted to practice his English and secure me a cab. This time I call Anna and hand the phone to the driver. She explains where I need to meet up. Off we go. 30 minutes later we pull up to where the gals are seated on their backpacks. Taking the same cab, we head for the bus depot. Hot, sticky, diesel fumes, but we arrive only to find that the bus we want has just headed out of the depot. The driver speeds after the bus, honking, waving, until the bus pulls over and we board. From Medan to Parapat-18000 rupiah. That equals $1.80 for a 4 hour ride. No AC. I'm sweating sitting next to a local man, mid-20s, in a seat only one should occupy. I thank God I am as small as I am. Well, it's not the smallness that counts here but the small butt. Indos do not have personal space as we do. If you press against each other, cheek to cheek, that is considered a sign of friendship. This guy is my best friend! His name is Faisal and he exits after about 1 hour. The man across the aisle and one up is smoking incessantly. Now in front of me, the man is smoking. Lord have Mercy!! Only when he sleeps is he not inhaling nicotine. A little grandma, small butt, sits next to me as I slide to the window "seat" after Faisal leaves. Next, a middle aged man sits with me, then an 8 year old girl. What courage it must have taken for her to sit next to this big butt foreigner. Next is a teenage girl who is selling things on the bus-on at one stop, off at the next. Bus hopping. She is so innocent. Anna and Shannon buy some cakes and pastries from her. Sitting across the aisle, both directly across and one up are women with infants. One of the women is breast feeding-there's a naturalness about such things. We enter the mountains and the jungle closes in. The bus grinds up the winding, potholed, narrow highway, this is the Trans Sumatran Highway. Descending into Parapat, we de-bus near the ferry which will take us to the island in Lake Toba. Lake Toba is an extinct volcano so the sides climb steeply from the water's edge. With 30 minutes before the ferry leaves, we order some light food, drink, and find the WC. Bus riding does not allow for watering holes or pit stops. On the ferry 7000 rp (70 cents) we bounce over the choppy waters for 30 minutes. We are dropped off at a dock in Tuk Tuk. Anna, Shannon and I make for the first hotel. No room. We have read of the Tabo Cottages, a 10 minute walk around to the left, and find the office. My first thought is, "God doesn't know about this spot." I take a room at 60000 rp ($6). The room is spartan (bottom sheet and light blanket) but clean. The toilet is a hole in the ground, Indonesian style, and a cold shower. But, the lake is pristine. I could stay here forever.
Monday, February 4, 2008
Sunday, February 3, 2008
OOPS
Monday morning, back home most people are watching the Super Bowl. I have other supers to experience.
I am in the Garuda Plaza Hotel, downtown Medan, Sumatra. It's a fine enough hotel. But, I can't find the air conditioning control. It's a bit cool for me, so I scour the room. Nothing. The only thing I find is a vent, which won't close. Next best idea is to find more bedding. With only a sheet and thin blanket on the bed, I head to the closet. Nothing! But, there is a small something. I place this cloth on the blanket, it covers only a fraction of my body. Better than nothing, I figure. This morning the cloth is lying on the floor and I recognize it - A PRAYER RUG. OOPS. I should have known - this is a Muslim country, afterall.
I am in the Garuda Plaza Hotel, downtown Medan, Sumatra. It's a fine enough hotel. But, I can't find the air conditioning control. It's a bit cool for me, so I scour the room. Nothing. The only thing I find is a vent, which won't close. Next best idea is to find more bedding. With only a sheet and thin blanket on the bed, I head to the closet. Nothing! But, there is a small something. I place this cloth on the blanket, it covers only a fraction of my body. Better than nothing, I figure. This morning the cloth is lying on the floor and I recognize it - A PRAYER RUG. OOPS. I should have known - this is a Muslim country, afterall.
Medan, Indonesia
Time is not all the same. Some experiences are longer than others. The morning starts with a 6:00 departure for the Palembang airport. Finding a relatively clean seat, in the gate area, the delays start-not bad, only 30 minutes. Descending into Jakarta (1 hour flight) the city is aflood in continuing rain. The inter-runway areas are a bog. Landing I see that my Jakarta-Medan flight (2 hour flight) is delayed. It's a cruel joke to delay 1 1/2 hours, delay again that amount of time, and then cancel the flight. Now what? Sitting in the gate area I begin a conversation with two Aussie gals from the Uni in Canberra. Anna and Shannon are in Indonesia for 4 weeks studying Indonesian and vacationing. Both of them speak a good Indonesian. We head to the "Executive Lounge" at a cost of $5. (How can an executive lounge look like the rest of the airport?) Finding some food, we wait. Anna thinks she hears something being said and leaves to make inquires about what's going to happen. With nothing being said over the speakers, how would we know that a flight has been re-instated, unless there is a continual asking. I know I'm traveling solo, and am aware of the need for caution. Then, I see these two young women who are enjoying, and anticipating, the new things upcoming. Anna asks if I would like to join them for the next few days. You bet! Anna's language skills will come in handy. And I have some company. I accept! Tomorrow we travel to Lake Toba, 5 hours by bus southwest of Medan. We will spend the night and then find our way to the orangutan refuges and more.
Words
In the front of my English/Indonesia dictionary I have written some simple words for reference:
Hospital - Rumah Sakit
Police - Polisi (that's an easy one)
Help - Bantuan
Thanks - Makasih
Selamat Datang - Welcome
Selamat Pagi - Good Morning
Good Evening - Selamat Malam
Friend - Teman
Good Friend - Bagus Teman
Help Margie, or Iain, if this is incorrect let me know. I would hate to be asking someone to marry me or be making a comment about their mother.
Hospital - Rumah Sakit
Police - Polisi (that's an easy one)
Help - Bantuan
Thanks - Makasih
Selamat Datang - Welcome
Selamat Pagi - Good Morning
Good Evening - Selamat Malam
Friend - Teman
Good Friend - Bagus Teman
Help Margie, or Iain, if this is incorrect let me know. I would hate to be asking someone to marry me or be making a comment about their mother.
Time with the Sundas
It's my mother's birthday today. There will be many of these, "not there" moments. Happy Birthday Mom.
Doug and Vivian were to spend several days in Jakarta. That did not happen due to the flooding of the city and airport. Instead, they picked me up and we went to the golf course and slapped at 5 buckets of balls. Rather, I slapped, they hit. The driving range has ponds on the left, bamboo stalks lining the right side and a bunching of banana trees at about the 250 m mark. Agus, our driver, slept in the car. With that out of the way, we headed for a Costco type store to look for a shoping bag-come back next week. Next stop was the grocery for food products. I did see some apples from the US but mainly they appear to be from China. The fishing countries like Japan and China are not allowed within the 12 mi. limit of Indonesia so they hire locals to fish for them and bring the catches to their vessels outside the limit. Quickly, these waters are being overfished. Then, to the Sunda house for talk, food, playing with a small helicopter I brought for us to crash. The Sunda residence is a three bedroom house secured by high walls on three sides and a shorter fence along the front. A large steel gate, with padlock, secures the outer gate. The house is the usual tropical look of high ceilings. Dinner is simple and flavorful-Vivian learned to cook from her grandmother in China. Beers wash down the meal, with a shot of scotch to finish the evening. Good folk! 9:00-Agus takes me home. I sleep all night. The second such night. My body has arrived!
Doug and Vivian were to spend several days in Jakarta. That did not happen due to the flooding of the city and airport. Instead, they picked me up and we went to the golf course and slapped at 5 buckets of balls. Rather, I slapped, they hit. The driving range has ponds on the left, bamboo stalks lining the right side and a bunching of banana trees at about the 250 m mark. Agus, our driver, slept in the car. With that out of the way, we headed for a Costco type store to look for a shoping bag-come back next week. Next stop was the grocery for food products. I did see some apples from the US but mainly they appear to be from China. The fishing countries like Japan and China are not allowed within the 12 mi. limit of Indonesia so they hire locals to fish for them and bring the catches to their vessels outside the limit. Quickly, these waters are being overfished. Then, to the Sunda house for talk, food, playing with a small helicopter I brought for us to crash. The Sunda residence is a three bedroom house secured by high walls on three sides and a shorter fence along the front. A large steel gate, with padlock, secures the outer gate. The house is the usual tropical look of high ceilings. Dinner is simple and flavorful-Vivian learned to cook from her grandmother in China. Beers wash down the meal, with a shot of scotch to finish the evening. Good folk! 9:00-Agus takes me home. I sleep all night. The second such night. My body has arrived!
Friday, February 1, 2008
Travel Plans
Doug is right. There isn't much in Palembang or surroundings. To the north, 500 km, is the city of Medan. Tomorrow, I have made plans to see that area. To get there means returning to Jakarta and then flying past Palembang, and on to Medan. Why can't there be a direct flight? This was planned through a travel agent named Lisa at whose desk I sat for an hour. Sumatra, as I'm sure most of the third world countries, is run by 18-25 year olds. Lisa can't be over 20. Not wanting to have that lost look when I land in Medan, I also booked a hotel, Garuda Plaza Hotel, for one night-$35 for a 3 star hotel. I'll let you know if that should read 3 or less when I arrive. From there I want to make my way to some parks and Lake Toba.
I bought a pocket dictionary and a Sumatra map for help.
Here's a tip: When you are in REI buying travel clothes and the salesperson says, "These clothes will dry in one hour!" ADD 2 DAYS. Although, I am contemplating wearing damp clothes. Why not? Certainly cooler!
I bought a pocket dictionary and a Sumatra map for help.
Here's a tip: When you are in REI buying travel clothes and the salesperson says, "These clothes will dry in one hour!" ADD 2 DAYS. Although, I am contemplating wearing damp clothes. Why not? Certainly cooler!
Ramblings
-Table utensils are either chopsticks or a fork and spoon which are used together, one in each hand. No knife.
-Men often wear hats which appear to be cotton. They are either worn almond shaped on the head or opened up to fit the head making them round.
-At breakfast the guave juice was substituted with mango juice. No complaints.
-I ditched my socks within 2 hours of landing-too warm.
-Makasih, in Indonesian, is thank you. Oddly, that is my Congolese name - Makasi. Same pronounciation.
-Men often wear hats which appear to be cotton. They are either worn almond shaped on the head or opened up to fit the head making them round.
-At breakfast the guave juice was substituted with mango juice. No complaints.
-I ditched my socks within 2 hours of landing-too warm.
-Makasih, in Indonesian, is thank you. Oddly, that is my Congolese name - Makasi. Same pronounciation.
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