Tuesday, May 6, 08
Taking a charter bus to the Thailand/Cambodia border, we arrive around noon. We arrive near the border. A tuk tuk ride brings us to the Cambodian consulate where we are awarded a visa. On, John and I in one and Stewart and Claire in another, to the Thai border. Clearing that hurdle, we walk the 1/8 no-man's land to the other side of the bridge. There we are greeted with casinos and the haggling begins. It appears there is a man assigned to us. He directs us to where we fill in the arrival/departure card and have our passports and visas stamped. This yellow shirted, young man then directs us to a shuttle bus which he says is to take us to the bus station. All the time, being seriously questioned, he claims to be working for the Cambodian Ministry of Tourism. The shuttle takes us a mile through mud slopped streets, the rain has just passed, and deposits us at a door in a strip of shops. In our book we have read that the mafia controls taxis and bus service into the country. TRUE!! When we are instructed that the ride to Battambang will be $40 US, we walk away. The heat is stifling and the wind non-existent. Stewart says he thinks he remembers where the bus station is. We walk. Appearing before us is the yellow shirt, young man. He tells us that we are headed the wrong way, will not find anything better, and generally laughs at us. We walk past with him in following. Needing something to drink, and time to collect our thoughts, we stop at a small shop and order 4 cokes. As we drink in walks a man who says he will take us to Battambang. How much? $40. We ask him how he knew we were headed to Battambang? He doesn't reply. Understanding that this man, following continued effort at communication, is a visual learner, I pull out a piece of paper and pen and write; 4 people, Battambang, $30. (Here I need to say that although Cambodian money is Real at 4000 R to $1, the preferred currency is US dollars. All store and food prices are in USD) As we are finished, we leave him sitting and continue walking. The heat is building! Sweat is drenching us. The now crested road is swirling red dust. We walk. Ahead, approaching, is the yellow shirt young man. Now I'm pissed. He follows and laughs at us. I ask him not to follow us. Or rather, tell him. He says this is Cambodia and he can go where he likes. He's right, of course! We continue. Suddenly, there in front of a Camry with the hood up, is the taxi driver who we left at the coke shop. He says he will do it for $30. Again, going through the full routine, we all agree. The yellow shirted man gets some money from the driver and he's ready. Sitting in front is John riding shotgun. I'm behind him. As we climb in, I make the mistake of putting my hand in the door and he slams it on my left ring finger. "Open the door, John." He does, the fingernail immediately begins turning red. An appropriate finish to Poi Pet - 1 hour of lessons.
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Monday, May 5, 2008
Walking Bangkok
Monday, May 5, 08
Tomorrow, 7:30, we will be picked up along Khao San Road and driven to Aranya Prathet, at the Thailand/Cambodia border. From there, we will need to make our way to Ankor Wat.
Again, finding ourselves in a frat house, John and I have decided to spend a few more Baht and enjoy Air Con and a higher standard of living. After breakfast of a roti and coffee, at a small Indian restaurant, we find a room at Thara House for 5oo B. Oh, we are living it up; hot shower, Air Con, soap, towel, top sheet and shampoo. This will make up for all the low living we can expect in Cambodia, which is known for spartan hostels.
Having yesterday traveled the Chao Phraya River, we attempt to find a boat which will take us through the canals of Thonburi. Thonburi is across the river from Bangkok, to the west, and once served as the capital. Approaching the boat stops, there is a constant attempt to get us into tours or expensive excursions. Our mission, which we accept, is to find that boat the locals use.
Crossing the Chao Phraya on the ferry, we are now on the Thonburi side.
There are markets which spring up around many of the boat landings. Here is no different. Anything can be purchased - clothes, electronics, beauty enhancements and entertainment.
We begin walking, looking for the spot where we can catch the water taxi heading into the canals. Turning left along a canal, we walk, not finding what we want, past the construction of a hospital, on till we happen on the Thonburi Locomotive Depot. Five steam engines are held for special occasions, King's birthday and other special days. In the grease, grime and diesel, we walk through taking time to climb aboard the old engines. This is how the US used to be before safety and liability took hold. Welcomed, we enjoy talking with the mechanics, who are over-joyed to have a distraction.
Deep into the interior of a tight housing complex, we have unintentionally turned into the closeness of Bangkok. Happening upon 3 women and one man, drinking whiskey and having lunch, we are encouraged to join them. Declining, but spending time cooling off next to their fan, we are made to feel part of the family. Coming out of the narrow, twisting passages between homes, we find ourselves underneath a large bridge. On the other side, we again find narrow streets with temples, repair shops, a seamstress, and eateries. Here we stop for a drink, a Pepsi taken in a plastic bag with ice and straw. When the drink if finished, we use the ice to pour over our legs, hold against our arms, and cool off with it pressed against our foreheads. It's hot!
Finding the canal, we can't find the stops. The canals and river are teaming with fish. Literally, every moment there are 2-5 fish popping to the surface. Yet, in this pollution, who will eat them. Periodically, a breeze comes through dropping a degree or two. But, not long enough. Retracing our steps, we again find where the ferry had first brought us across. We return to the Bangkok side, east side, and find our way to our room. Air Con! 3 1/2 hour enjoyable walk.
Chao Phraya pics and walk: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/musungi/ChaoPhraya
Tomorrow, 7:30, we will be picked up along Khao San Road and driven to Aranya Prathet, at the Thailand/Cambodia border. From there, we will need to make our way to Ankor Wat.
Again, finding ourselves in a frat house, John and I have decided to spend a few more Baht and enjoy Air Con and a higher standard of living. After breakfast of a roti and coffee, at a small Indian restaurant, we find a room at Thara House for 5oo B. Oh, we are living it up; hot shower, Air Con, soap, towel, top sheet and shampoo. This will make up for all the low living we can expect in Cambodia, which is known for spartan hostels.
Having yesterday traveled the Chao Phraya River, we attempt to find a boat which will take us through the canals of Thonburi. Thonburi is across the river from Bangkok, to the west, and once served as the capital. Approaching the boat stops, there is a constant attempt to get us into tours or expensive excursions. Our mission, which we accept, is to find that boat the locals use.
Crossing the Chao Phraya on the ferry, we are now on the Thonburi side.
There are markets which spring up around many of the boat landings. Here is no different. Anything can be purchased - clothes, electronics, beauty enhancements and entertainment.
We begin walking, looking for the spot where we can catch the water taxi heading into the canals. Turning left along a canal, we walk, not finding what we want, past the construction of a hospital, on till we happen on the Thonburi Locomotive Depot. Five steam engines are held for special occasions, King's birthday and other special days. In the grease, grime and diesel, we walk through taking time to climb aboard the old engines. This is how the US used to be before safety and liability took hold. Welcomed, we enjoy talking with the mechanics, who are over-joyed to have a distraction.
Deep into the interior of a tight housing complex, we have unintentionally turned into the closeness of Bangkok. Happening upon 3 women and one man, drinking whiskey and having lunch, we are encouraged to join them. Declining, but spending time cooling off next to their fan, we are made to feel part of the family. Coming out of the narrow, twisting passages between homes, we find ourselves underneath a large bridge. On the other side, we again find narrow streets with temples, repair shops, a seamstress, and eateries. Here we stop for a drink, a Pepsi taken in a plastic bag with ice and straw. When the drink if finished, we use the ice to pour over our legs, hold against our arms, and cool off with it pressed against our foreheads. It's hot!
Finding the canal, we can't find the stops. The canals and river are teaming with fish. Literally, every moment there are 2-5 fish popping to the surface. Yet, in this pollution, who will eat them. Periodically, a breeze comes through dropping a degree or two. But, not long enough. Retracing our steps, we again find where the ferry had first brought us across. We return to the Bangkok side, east side, and find our way to our room. Air Con! 3 1/2 hour enjoyable walk.
Chao Phraya pics and walk: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/musungi/ChaoPhraya
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Lopburi to Bangkok
Sunday, May 4, 08
Up at 7:15, I am sitting in my commuter train seat by 7:40, shower but no shave. This place is known for the monkeys which inhabit the ruins. But, I bypassed them, didn't go past the ruins, did not give them a chance to take my hat, and came straight here.
The train ride leaves the station at 8:00. Across from me is a young Thai woman who really tries hard to practice her English. Curing the 2 1/2 ride to Bangkok, we have many opportunities to laugh, she isn't making herself understood, and neither am I. She exits the train on the outskirts of Bangkok headed to an appointment to have her teeth checked, she is wearing braces.
Calling John, he has been in town since yesterday, we arrange a rendez-vous and find an adequate spot several blocks off of Khao San Rd.
I ask if we could take a river cruise? Sure! It amounts to taking the local "river taxi," a boat which runs through the heart of Bangkok on Chao Phraya, the river through the heart of Bangkok. Up and back, and we are available to meet John's son, Stewart, and girlfriend, Claire, on Khao San. There we arrange our Tuesday bus ride to Cambodia. Tomorrow, hopefully, I will retrieve my passport with an India visa.
I will post the Chao Phraya pictures then.
Up at 7:15, I am sitting in my commuter train seat by 7:40, shower but no shave. This place is known for the monkeys which inhabit the ruins. But, I bypassed them, didn't go past the ruins, did not give them a chance to take my hat, and came straight here.
The train ride leaves the station at 8:00. Across from me is a young Thai woman who really tries hard to practice her English. Curing the 2 1/2 ride to Bangkok, we have many opportunities to laugh, she isn't making herself understood, and neither am I. She exits the train on the outskirts of Bangkok headed to an appointment to have her teeth checked, she is wearing braces.
Calling John, he has been in town since yesterday, we arrange a rendez-vous and find an adequate spot several blocks off of Khao San Rd.
I ask if we could take a river cruise? Sure! It amounts to taking the local "river taxi," a boat which runs through the heart of Bangkok on Chao Phraya, the river through the heart of Bangkok. Up and back, and we are available to meet John's son, Stewart, and girlfriend, Claire, on Khao San. There we arrange our Tuesday bus ride to Cambodia. Tomorrow, hopefully, I will retrieve my passport with an India visa.
I will post the Chao Phraya pictures then.
Saturday, May 3, 2008
Chiang Mai to Lopburi, Thailand
Saturday, May 3, 08
8:45 - Good-bye to Chiang Mai.
My new day pack is going to be more functional than my other. Security is always an issue. This one has double zippers which can be locked nicely.
This 3 car train has the appearance of a commuter. I am in the first car and can see into the driving compartments - 2 drivers separated by a walkway and door out the front. Rolling up the aisle comes a hostess pushing a cart with coffee, water and orange juice. Jerk, jerk, sway! Ticket please, I imagine that's what the controller says. The hostess asks and I point to orange juice. A cake and fruit filled pastry come with it. I must be in the rich car. She opens the door to the driver's booths and I see 1/4" of water standing between them in the small walkway - rain water. The windshield wipers aren't helping much. But, a train doesn't need what a car does. The one driver asks for coffee, stands and passes the hostess walking to the rear. The other driver also stands, turns to the hostess and waits for her to pour his drink. Who's driving this thing? Barreling along. Coffee is transferred and the driver returns to his duties. No worries! I must say that he did glance once over his shoulder while the coffee was being poured. I can read the speedometer to the upper right of the driver, 90 km/hr - not for long. Water from the driver's compartment is finding its way down the center aisle of the car. A custodian moves it along. Later, he returns with a mop. This is a wonderful car. I can look out the side window or stand and see what's coming up front. The toilet also comes with a large, open window to the outside. There's a fine view in and out.
Traveling through forested hills, past Doi In, Thailand's highest peak (2565 m) enshrouded in clouds.
The driver's control station has his buttons, levers, and gauges. On the left side are a cup of coffee and a roll of toilet paper - seems right!
It turns out that the man on the left is not a driver. His job is passing or hooking a metal cable, tear shaped with a pouch on the pointed end, into a crook at a station and retrieving a similar one as we pass. All this at 40 km/hr. What is being transferred? I ask but no one can tell me. I also witnessed this on the Malaysia trains. When the hooking man comes through, I ask him. No English! Drat!
The hostess, immediately after serving the snack, has curled up on a double seat and pulled a blanket over herself.
In Lampang, 10:40, we switch driver and hooker. This will happen 2 other times during the ride. Custodian again mops the floor.
I smell food! Yep, our hostess is back on the job, 11:30. OK, now I know I'm in first class, even though my ticket reads 2nd. Lunch is rice, chicken, cucumber, and tapioca.
The landscape is still hills but with dense bamboo forests. No sign of humans except for a grove of bananas, occasionally. Bamboo, bamboo... Fog dips over the hill top creating an eerie ghostness.
Then, habitations, some flamboyant type trees. That fast, we're past, at 40 km/hr. This seems to be the speed through the hills.
At Pha Khan station butterflies dominate the scene; white, white/black, yellow, circling, landing, fluttering overhead, on orange, purple and pink flowers.
Bamboo! Occasionally a red muddy vehicle road parallels us. Gone! No vehicles spotted.
Tethered water buffalo, cattle and rice paddies greet our entrance into a valley and suggest a town. A muddy river flows past as we are again in the forested hills. Rain has long ago left us with only heavy clouds. The sun has been refused so far today.
Flatland and rice paddies. This will be the scenery till Lopburi.
Ah, broken sunshine.
The smell of Tiger Balm, think Vicks, fills the car as someone applies it against sand fleas. Mine is in my big backpack, someplace.
Arriving in Lopburi in darkness, 6:45, ( I dislike arriving when it's dark. It's disorienting.) I walk the one street town and find the hotel I'm looking for - Nett Hotel. I ask the desk manager, a young man in his early 20s, for a look at the room. 211 turns out to be one flight up with private bathroom and 160B/night. The room is agreeable enough till I spot our winged SE Asian friend making a dash for cover under a small table. I take a swipe but the cockroach makes his escape. Yes, I'll take the room on the condition that he sprays it down. He agrees! With hunger eating at me, I walk 4 blocks, back to the main street, for something cooked at one of the stands. Young helper searches for the spray.
8:45 - Good-bye to Chiang Mai.
My new day pack is going to be more functional than my other. Security is always an issue. This one has double zippers which can be locked nicely.
This 3 car train has the appearance of a commuter. I am in the first car and can see into the driving compartments - 2 drivers separated by a walkway and door out the front. Rolling up the aisle comes a hostess pushing a cart with coffee, water and orange juice. Jerk, jerk, sway! Ticket please, I imagine that's what the controller says. The hostess asks and I point to orange juice. A cake and fruit filled pastry come with it. I must be in the rich car. She opens the door to the driver's booths and I see 1/4" of water standing between them in the small walkway - rain water. The windshield wipers aren't helping much. But, a train doesn't need what a car does. The one driver asks for coffee, stands and passes the hostess walking to the rear. The other driver also stands, turns to the hostess and waits for her to pour his drink. Who's driving this thing? Barreling along. Coffee is transferred and the driver returns to his duties. No worries! I must say that he did glance once over his shoulder while the coffee was being poured. I can read the speedometer to the upper right of the driver, 90 km/hr - not for long. Water from the driver's compartment is finding its way down the center aisle of the car. A custodian moves it along. Later, he returns with a mop. This is a wonderful car. I can look out the side window or stand and see what's coming up front. The toilet also comes with a large, open window to the outside. There's a fine view in and out.
Traveling through forested hills, past Doi In, Thailand's highest peak (2565 m) enshrouded in clouds.
The driver's control station has his buttons, levers, and gauges. On the left side are a cup of coffee and a roll of toilet paper - seems right!
It turns out that the man on the left is not a driver. His job is passing or hooking a metal cable, tear shaped with a pouch on the pointed end, into a crook at a station and retrieving a similar one as we pass. All this at 40 km/hr. What is being transferred? I ask but no one can tell me. I also witnessed this on the Malaysia trains. When the hooking man comes through, I ask him. No English! Drat!
The hostess, immediately after serving the snack, has curled up on a double seat and pulled a blanket over herself.
In Lampang, 10:40, we switch driver and hooker. This will happen 2 other times during the ride. Custodian again mops the floor.
I smell food! Yep, our hostess is back on the job, 11:30. OK, now I know I'm in first class, even though my ticket reads 2nd. Lunch is rice, chicken, cucumber, and tapioca.
The landscape is still hills but with dense bamboo forests. No sign of humans except for a grove of bananas, occasionally. Bamboo, bamboo... Fog dips over the hill top creating an eerie ghostness.
Then, habitations, some flamboyant type trees. That fast, we're past, at 40 km/hr. This seems to be the speed through the hills.
At Pha Khan station butterflies dominate the scene; white, white/black, yellow, circling, landing, fluttering overhead, on orange, purple and pink flowers.
Bamboo! Occasionally a red muddy vehicle road parallels us. Gone! No vehicles spotted.
Tethered water buffalo, cattle and rice paddies greet our entrance into a valley and suggest a town. A muddy river flows past as we are again in the forested hills. Rain has long ago left us with only heavy clouds. The sun has been refused so far today.
Flatland and rice paddies. This will be the scenery till Lopburi.
Ah, broken sunshine.
The smell of Tiger Balm, think Vicks, fills the car as someone applies it against sand fleas. Mine is in my big backpack, someplace.
Arriving in Lopburi in darkness, 6:45, ( I dislike arriving when it's dark. It's disorienting.) I walk the one street town and find the hotel I'm looking for - Nett Hotel. I ask the desk manager, a young man in his early 20s, for a look at the room. 211 turns out to be one flight up with private bathroom and 160B/night. The room is agreeable enough till I spot our winged SE Asian friend making a dash for cover under a small table. I take a swipe but the cockroach makes his escape. Yes, I'll take the room on the condition that he sprays it down. He agrees! With hunger eating at me, I walk 4 blocks, back to the main street, for something cooked at one of the stands. Young helper searches for the spray.
Thursday, May 1, 2008
Railway Station and back
Friday, May 2, 08
This is a catch-up day. All I have to do is buy a train ticket. I have decided to split the travel back to Bangkok into two days. Tomorrow will be a ride from Chiang Mai to Lopburi. Then, Sunday, I'll continue into Bangkok reconnecting with John Peatman who is coming up from Phuket in the south. With no reason why not, I am walking the distance to the train station - 1 hour each way. At the station I buy the ticket, 8:45 departure, with a 6:03 arrival. My ticket says Car 1, Seat 4. Cost, 566 B. Feeling hot, I sit at a small roadside stall and order a drink. A man sits across from me and engages me in conversation. His name is Nop. He works as a tour consultant and instantly goes into work mode - Where do I want to go? Where am I staying? Do I want a trek? Finally, after he realizes there is nothing to sell, we can start a conversation.
The return home doesn't seem as long as the going, Why is that?
There is a fierce storm, coming in from Myanmar (Burma), which is to hit us late afternoon.
Observations:
-There is an odd custom of serving a bottle of beer with a glass filled with ice. Most Westerners simply pour out the ice and that's that. Seems like a waste of good ice.
-Reverence and respect for the royal family is everywhere. Even passing a picture of the King can cause a tuk tuk driver to bring both hands together, this while driving. It's refreshing to see.
-I have four cuts and scrapes; a cut on my finger, a scrape on my arm, and a scrape and scratch on my right foot. None of them appear to be any problem. I have taken specific care to clean and anoint each of them.
-The zippers on my daypack, purchased in Sentani, have finally given out. I'll find a new one today.
Back in Bangkok, I am hoping to spend an evening with Robert Charter. But, that may not happen due to conflicting schedules.
These pictures were taken as I walked to and from the train station. This is what Chiang Mai looks like as a city.
Walking pics: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/musungi/WalkingChiangMai
This is a catch-up day. All I have to do is buy a train ticket. I have decided to split the travel back to Bangkok into two days. Tomorrow will be a ride from Chiang Mai to Lopburi. Then, Sunday, I'll continue into Bangkok reconnecting with John Peatman who is coming up from Phuket in the south. With no reason why not, I am walking the distance to the train station - 1 hour each way. At the station I buy the ticket, 8:45 departure, with a 6:03 arrival. My ticket says Car 1, Seat 4. Cost, 566 B. Feeling hot, I sit at a small roadside stall and order a drink. A man sits across from me and engages me in conversation. His name is Nop. He works as a tour consultant and instantly goes into work mode - Where do I want to go? Where am I staying? Do I want a trek? Finally, after he realizes there is nothing to sell, we can start a conversation.
The return home doesn't seem as long as the going, Why is that?
There is a fierce storm, coming in from Myanmar (Burma), which is to hit us late afternoon.
Observations:
-There is an odd custom of serving a bottle of beer with a glass filled with ice. Most Westerners simply pour out the ice and that's that. Seems like a waste of good ice.
-Reverence and respect for the royal family is everywhere. Even passing a picture of the King can cause a tuk tuk driver to bring both hands together, this while driving. It's refreshing to see.
-I have four cuts and scrapes; a cut on my finger, a scrape on my arm, and a scrape and scratch on my right foot. None of them appear to be any problem. I have taken specific care to clean and anoint each of them.
-The zippers on my daypack, purchased in Sentani, have finally given out. I'll find a new one today.
Back in Bangkok, I am hoping to spend an evening with Robert Charter. But, that may not happen due to conflicting schedules.
These pictures were taken as I walked to and from the train station. This is what Chiang Mai looks like as a city.
Walking pics: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/musungi/WalkingChiangMai
Housekeeping
Yesterday, I posted some pictures and forgot to add the link.
Chiang Mai pics: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/musungi/ChiangMaiThailand
Chiang Mai pics: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/musungi/ChiangMaiThailand
Doi Suthep/Bo Sang
Thursday, May 1, 08
Chiang Mai is old. Built in 1296 by Thai king Phaya Mengrai, the old city is enclosed in a moat and was walled. Parts of the walls are still visible. Walking to the edge of the old city, and riding a sawngthaew, a small pickup with a camper shell (see photos) to the zoo, I catch another sawngthaew to Wat Phra Doi Suthep, a temple and monastery at the top of a hill (1676 m), 8 km out of town. First order, some good - it's 10:45. Certainly, I can do such things as getting here much faster. But, this way I can sit in the back with 10 others. One young man is hanging on the back. Across from me, a young girl and her mother are talking. It mostly centers, I can read this through their gestures, around how to clear your ears as we climb through the winding curves. Next to me, a man doesn't like the exhaust fumes. Back at the zoo, I would have missed my ride if a kind man hadn't called and pointed. They must wonder how I ever got this far. Food is vegetables and chicken on rice. An egg tops the mound.
At the top of the 306 steps, is a copper-plated chedi topped by a 5-tiered gold umbrella -one of the holiest chedi in Thailand. I stop at the border rooms and watch ceremonies of blessing. Devotion is being shown by walking around the chedi and then placing the three symbols in their appropriate places - flower, candle and incense stick. On the way out I pay 10B and pick up a packet of three incense sticks and two yellow candles. Retracing my steps down the staircase I find a toilet. Stepping to the urinal, the packet of incense and candles slip out of my grasp toward the porcelain. Grabbing hurriedly, I am successful, but wonder what the meaning of that would have been! A sawngthaew drops me within walking distance of my room.
Following a shower and nap I head out. It's 2:30, I should know better than to start something new mid-afternoon, in the heat of the day. I walk to the flower market - 30 minutes, and wait for a sawngthaew to take me to Bo Sang, about 12 km east of town. I ask a man to show me which one - it's the white one, red this morning. This mode of transportation has a fixed rate, works on the same order as a city bus. Here it comes. It's packed! I'll have to hang on the back with two others. Clinging to the left side, I get a good left foot grip and a toe hold with my right. Wrapping my arm around a ladder and my right digging into a top rack, we are good to go. It's hot as a stocked fire, the sun beating down on us. The tops of my feet, I'm in flip flops, are feeling a burn coming on if this continues. It does! We pull overand insiders are exiting the sauna. 11 are inside, 3 hanging on the back and 3 large containers down the middle, seating is along the sides. Halfway there, I adjust my daypack and it slides off my shoulder. A mad attempt is made, but it kerplops into the street - we're in the slow lane. With hollers and pressing of the buzzer, the driver brings us to a stop. I run back, grab it from the dodging traffic and return to regain my perch. Putting the pack on properly, on my back, with the belly strap fastened, rather than casually over my shoulder, as previously, I have a chagrined look on my face. I had chosen to carry it that way because of the heat. No longer! We're close, 5 km, 2 km, 1 km. I see a sign for the craft fair and press the buzzer. I must be a curious one to my fellow passengers. All wave and smile. Or, maybe, I'm fitting right in. Lord, and to think I'll be riding back!
Chiang Mai is old. Built in 1296 by Thai king Phaya Mengrai, the old city is enclosed in a moat and was walled. Parts of the walls are still visible. Walking to the edge of the old city, and riding a sawngthaew, a small pickup with a camper shell (see photos) to the zoo, I catch another sawngthaew to Wat Phra Doi Suthep, a temple and monastery at the top of a hill (1676 m), 8 km out of town. First order, some good - it's 10:45. Certainly, I can do such things as getting here much faster. But, this way I can sit in the back with 10 others. One young man is hanging on the back. Across from me, a young girl and her mother are talking. It mostly centers, I can read this through their gestures, around how to clear your ears as we climb through the winding curves. Next to me, a man doesn't like the exhaust fumes. Back at the zoo, I would have missed my ride if a kind man hadn't called and pointed. They must wonder how I ever got this far. Food is vegetables and chicken on rice. An egg tops the mound.
At the top of the 306 steps, is a copper-plated chedi topped by a 5-tiered gold umbrella -one of the holiest chedi in Thailand. I stop at the border rooms and watch ceremonies of blessing. Devotion is being shown by walking around the chedi and then placing the three symbols in their appropriate places - flower, candle and incense stick. On the way out I pay 10B and pick up a packet of three incense sticks and two yellow candles. Retracing my steps down the staircase I find a toilet. Stepping to the urinal, the packet of incense and candles slip out of my grasp toward the porcelain. Grabbing hurriedly, I am successful, but wonder what the meaning of that would have been! A sawngthaew drops me within walking distance of my room.
Following a shower and nap I head out. It's 2:30, I should know better than to start something new mid-afternoon, in the heat of the day. I walk to the flower market - 30 minutes, and wait for a sawngthaew to take me to Bo Sang, about 12 km east of town. I ask a man to show me which one - it's the white one, red this morning. This mode of transportation has a fixed rate, works on the same order as a city bus. Here it comes. It's packed! I'll have to hang on the back with two others. Clinging to the left side, I get a good left foot grip and a toe hold with my right. Wrapping my arm around a ladder and my right digging into a top rack, we are good to go. It's hot as a stocked fire, the sun beating down on us. The tops of my feet, I'm in flip flops, are feeling a burn coming on if this continues. It does! We pull overand insiders are exiting the sauna. 11 are inside, 3 hanging on the back and 3 large containers down the middle, seating is along the sides. Halfway there, I adjust my daypack and it slides off my shoulder. A mad attempt is made, but it kerplops into the street - we're in the slow lane. With hollers and pressing of the buzzer, the driver brings us to a stop. I run back, grab it from the dodging traffic and return to regain my perch. Putting the pack on properly, on my back, with the belly strap fastened, rather than casually over my shoulder, as previously, I have a chagrined look on my face. I had chosen to carry it that way because of the heat. No longer! We're close, 5 km, 2 km, 1 km. I see a sign for the craft fair and press the buzzer. I must be a curious one to my fellow passengers. All wave and smile. Or, maybe, I'm fitting right in. Lord, and to think I'll be riding back!
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