Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Simanta Chatterjee
It's 4:00, I'm standing at the watchman's small desk just inside the large gate which is the entrance to the Ashram Nursing Home. Waiting, as he pulls on his socks and shoes, a boredness fills the air. Shoes on, he points up the short stairs to the ground floor where I find nothing. No reception desk. No nurse. Where is Simanta? Walking through the hall I find a door open, Library/TV Room, reads the sign. Two women, dressed similarly, my guess is they are orderly, are flopped on a divan. I ask. They point upstairs and say, "1st floor." Through the sanitary halls, white walls and tile floors, I find the stairs and climb the short distance to the empty floor. I wait as a man is being wheeled into an elevator, another buzzes around giving instructions to a man on the stairs. As the instructions are completed, I try to sneak in a word. No good! He's off, not concerned with me. Waiting, looking around, I see a young girl with her arm bandaged, sitting in a large room with partitions. Stepping in, several staff look to be filling trays, offering water, and such things, I ask for help. The little girl brightens when I give the name. Leading me, she steps around the partition and points to a bed against the wall where a man is lying on his side. I approach, he sits up, and I know instantly, from photos, that I have found Simanta. He first, then I, bring our hands together in Namaste, and shake each other's hands with both pressed tightly. Saying that I am a friend of Robert's, and my name, he motions for me to sit next to him. He is frail, dark rings around his eyes, and tells of his bout with some fever. Graciously, as I see is his custom, he makes me feel welcome. We talk of friends, wishes, hopes, and am sent off to find a man named Bob who works in the Ashram Archives. But, not before I promise to return tomorrow. All I know of Bob is that he is tall. Tall Bob is located in Archives. Following a 30 minute search through the library and other such places he is located. A native of Wisconsin, Tall Bob and I sit at a table, drinking water, and become friends. Tomorrow, we will meet for a joint Simanta visit. 4:00!
Where, oh where...
Tuesday, June 17, 08
Since my arrival, I have searched for Simanta Chatterje. He is of the Brahman caste and a dear friend of a friend. Today, I have been directed to an apartment 30 minutes walk from my Guest House. Arriving at the white 4 story building, I enter the gate and find the watchman. Yes, Simanta lives here. But, he has been in the Ashram Nursing Home (hospital) for the past 13 days. The Nursing Home is back along the waterfront, across the street from Park GH. So, I am told! This should be easy. 30 minutes later I arrive across from Park and find a building being renovated. With no English, a young man, carry a large plate of cement through the open gate, tells me it's 3 something that way. Three what? Streets, buildings... I walk a few buildings, till I find an open gate, and ask this watchman where? He points on down the street. Two blocks further and I ask 2 autorickshaw drivers. Continue on. One more block and I ask a policeman. No, back across from the GH. This time I'm taking no chances. Walking up to the reception desk at Park GH, I ask. Where? 3 buildings from here. Back I walk, slowly, counting, looking for something I had earlier missed. There, at the open gate, where I had earlier asked the watchman, is the sign of the Ashram on the inside wall. How could the watchman misunderstand me. This is how so many inquiries flow. If I spoke Tamil, all of this could be avoided.
Visiting hours are 4:00-7:00. Come back later! It's now past noon, too tired and too late for the Dining Hall, not wanting to walk the 15 minutes both ways, I sit at La Terrassee waiting for some lunch. That's my morning.
Since my arrival, I have searched for Simanta Chatterje. He is of the Brahman caste and a dear friend of a friend. Today, I have been directed to an apartment 30 minutes walk from my Guest House. Arriving at the white 4 story building, I enter the gate and find the watchman. Yes, Simanta lives here. But, he has been in the Ashram Nursing Home (hospital) for the past 13 days. The Nursing Home is back along the waterfront, across the street from Park GH. So, I am told! This should be easy. 30 minutes later I arrive across from Park and find a building being renovated. With no English, a young man, carry a large plate of cement through the open gate, tells me it's 3 something that way. Three what? Streets, buildings... I walk a few buildings, till I find an open gate, and ask this watchman where? He points on down the street. Two blocks further and I ask 2 autorickshaw drivers. Continue on. One more block and I ask a policeman. No, back across from the GH. This time I'm taking no chances. Walking up to the reception desk at Park GH, I ask. Where? 3 buildings from here. Back I walk, slowly, counting, looking for something I had earlier missed. There, at the open gate, where I had earlier asked the watchman, is the sign of the Ashram on the inside wall. How could the watchman misunderstand me. This is how so many inquiries flow. If I spoke Tamil, all of this could be avoided.
Visiting hours are 4:00-7:00. Come back later! It's now past noon, too tired and too late for the Dining Hall, not wanting to walk the 15 minutes both ways, I sit at La Terrassee waiting for some lunch. That's my morning.
Sunday, June 15, 2008
Park Guest House, Pondy
Sunday, June 15, 08A three and four story complex set 100 ft from the crashing waves of the Bay of Bengal, Park GH is part of the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, as was International GH. It is not set up to make or lose money. It's existence rests in being available to the Ashramites, and travellers like me. Cost? Bottom floor is Rs 200 ($5)/night. The other floors are double this. My room, 42, is on the bottom toward t
he middle. Out my room, between me and the crashing waves of the ocean, is a small porch, a walkway, a slender garden, a 5 ft fence and another walkway. One special addition, over that of International GH, is a canteen where I can sit with the paper and a cup of coffee. Snacks can also be purchased, as well as a simple 
breakfast. Out the left side is a large gate, a children's park, a community bathroom and I'm a short walk to the ocean. I would say beach, but there isn't any. 30-40 years ago there was a large beach and one could wade out on a sloping bottom for 1 km. For the past 10 years this has disappeared. All of it! No one quite knows why. The city has brought in large rocks to stop the erosion. That now is the Pondy waterfront. 
Laundry is picked up and turned in between 8:30-9:30, and must be paid for upon retrieval. No cleaning of the room is done without the guest's presence. There must have been an incident for such a policy to be enacted.
The room has 2 twin beds, bathroom, cold water, a small closet where I can secure my valuables and sundry shelves, tables and chairs. Tile floors throughout. With no screens, bugs and mosquitoes fly freely. A net, for night, is imperative. As soon as I can stop the Doxycycline, mosquito prophylaxis, I certainly will. The main side effect is light sensitivity. Although I smear 50 SPF sun block every morning, I still am experiencing a redness every now and again.
Guests are only allowed in the meeting room between 3:30-6:00, and the gate closes tightly at 10:30 PM.
The ocean breezes help to lessen the effects of the still warm summer, especially during the evening. Although the temperature isn't what it was 2 weeks ago, it's still warm. A very pleasant GH.
Today is Father's Day. I wouldn't have known it except that I called my son Matt and he wished it on me. And an email from son Andrew. Where, oh where is third son Steven?
Saturday, June 14, 2008
New Plans and Health
Saturday, June 14, 08
New Plans - Being scheduled to fly through London early July, I have emailed John and asked if he would be agreeable for a visit. Yes! Cutting my India time by one week, I am now scheduled to fly into London on June 25, with a flight out on July 2, into LAX. The UK is planning a petrol strike as I arrive. So it goes!
Health - I have been in excellent health. The only illness, during this complete period of travel, came during a 24 hour period in Ukarumpa, PNG. This past trip into the hills of India left me with two finger pokes. One became infected, but was quickly dealt with. No sinus problems. No scrapes, bruises, cuts, or sores. I now will quickly find a piece of wood to knock on!
During the hill trip, I left my backpack in Milan's office. Retrieving it today, I walked the 15 minutes to Park GH. It felt familiar!
New Plans - Being scheduled to fly through London early July, I have emailed John and asked if he would be agreeable for a visit. Yes! Cutting my India time by one week, I am now scheduled to fly into London on June 25, with a flight out on July 2, into LAX. The UK is planning a petrol strike as I arrive. So it goes!
Health - I have been in excellent health. The only illness, during this complete period of travel, came during a 24 hour period in Ukarumpa, PNG. This past trip into the hills of India left me with two finger pokes. One became infected, but was quickly dealt with. No sinus problems. No scrapes, bruises, cuts, or sores. I now will quickly find a piece of wood to knock on!
During the hill trip, I left my backpack in Milan's office. Retrieving it today, I walked the 15 minutes to Park GH. It felt familiar!
Friday, June 13, 2008
Prakash, the Driver
The nine day trip, Pondy, through the hill stations and return, is done, for convenience, in a taxi. I will be depended on for diesel money (advances), and so come prepared. This taxi driver does not own the car. He drives for someone. However, to make sure that the advances do not outstrip the actual costs is very important. That money would be irretrievable. The costs are negotiated and we are off. There is a car charge, a hill charge (extra money for driving in the hills), a set amount for the driver per day, and a kilometer charge. All this comes to $25/day.
From the outset, the driver is conniving, manipulative and difficult. I make the mistake of inviting him in to join us for breakfast, lunch and chai. Big mistake! In his mind I am an easy mark. The first morning in Kodaikanal, he says he has nowhere to bathe. We allow him to use our bathroom. The lodge objects. It turns out they had offered a facility for him but he had refused. He begins free-lancing, taking cash for rides during the times we aren't using him and not knowing that I've written down the odometer reading. This behavior continues. His story changes when it suits him. At one point, he asks Milan to have me advance him Rs 2000 ($50) so he can buy things for the family. That will not happen. On and on, it goes. Thursday, he claims he has no money for food when I have given him Rs 100 just the previous evening. Filling in diesel, with 4 hours to go on our return to Pondy, he wants the change from the fill-up. I refuse, which sends him into a rage. His response is to refuse to start the vehicle. Milan and I talk of collecting our things and taking another taxi, leaving him to drive back passenger empty. He climbs back into the driver's seat and now drives angry. He stops when he wants for chai, 30 minutes, and acts childishly. Glaring at us in the mirror, he drives on. Just get me to Pondy! As he drops us off, he goes into a rage wanting his tip. We have called his boss and will settle all this on Sat. This time Milan doesn't say, "This is India." Instead, he uses a barrage of words which one keeps in reserve for such occasions.
From the outset, the driver is conniving, manipulative and difficult. I make the mistake of inviting him in to join us for breakfast, lunch and chai. Big mistake! In his mind I am an easy mark. The first morning in Kodaikanal, he says he has nowhere to bathe. We allow him to use our bathroom. The lodge objects. It turns out they had offered a facility for him but he had refused. He begins free-lancing, taking cash for rides during the times we aren't using him and not knowing that I've written down the odometer reading. This behavior continues. His story changes when it suits him. At one point, he asks Milan to have me advance him Rs 2000 ($50) so he can buy things for the family. That will not happen. On and on, it goes. Thursday, he claims he has no money for food when I have given him Rs 100 just the previous evening. Filling in diesel, with 4 hours to go on our return to Pondy, he wants the change from the fill-up. I refuse, which sends him into a rage. His response is to refuse to start the vehicle. Milan and I talk of collecting our things and taking another taxi, leaving him to drive back passenger empty. He climbs back into the driver's seat and now drives angry. He stops when he wants for chai, 30 minutes, and acts childishly. Glaring at us in the mirror, he drives on. Just get me to Pondy! As he drops us off, he goes into a rage wanting his tip. We have called his boss and will settle all this on Sat. This time Milan doesn't say, "This is India." Instead, he uses a barrage of words which one keeps in reserve for such occasions.
Bandipur to Pondicherry
Thursday, June 12, 08
Breakfast and then off on the pot-holed road. Driving on the dirt shoulder is faster than staying on the road. After 20 km, we finally hit a respectable road. Well, somewhat respectable. The climb through the Ghats is gentle with a hair-pin descent on the east side. India has little respect for nature and less for the environment. This may be slowly changing. But, the cutting of large old trees, which line the roads, is a painful sight. Trash is thrown out with little regard for the consequences. Piles of everything are everywhere.
We pass old forgotten temples eroding from ages of neglect and fields of sugar cane, bananas, corn and sunflowers. Our driver enters towns at 60 km/hr and may slow to 30 weaving and dodging cows, carts, pedestrians, motorbikes, and grumbles when he is stopped.
Ten hours of this, my fingernail marks are in the seat in front of me, and we arrive back in Pondicherry. I'm in the Park Guest House, bottom floor, room 42. Rate per night is Rs 200 ($5). On the ocean front, this GH is within 100 ft of the crashing waves. The smell of saltwater is obvious. The crash of the surf sounds even over the whirl of the ceiling fan.
Breakfast and then off on the pot-holed road. Driving on the dirt shoulder is faster than staying on the road. After 20 km, we finally hit a respectable road. Well, somewhat respectable. The climb through the Ghats is gentle with a hair-pin descent on the east side. India has little respect for nature and less for the environment. This may be slowly changing. But, the cutting of large old trees, which line the roads, is a painful sight. Trash is thrown out with little regard for the consequences. Piles of everything are everywhere.
We pass old forgotten temples eroding from ages of neglect and fields of sugar cane, bananas, corn and sunflowers. Our driver enters towns at 60 km/hr and may slow to 30 weaving and dodging cows, carts, pedestrians, motorbikes, and grumbles when he is stopped.
Ten hours of this, my fingernail marks are in the seat in front of me, and we arrive back in Pondicherry. I'm in the Park Guest House, bottom floor, room 42. Rate per night is Rs 200 ($5). On the ocean front, this GH is within 100 ft of the crashing waves. The smell of saltwater is obvious. The crash of the surf sounds even over the whirl of the ceiling fan.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Otty to Mudumalai, India
Wednesday, June 11, 08
We are off for Mudumalai Tiger Reserve. First, we look out over the vallies from
Doddabetta Peak, 2633 m, the highest peak in all of South India, and visit the Govy Botanical Gardens in Otty. Both of these are spectacular. From the peak the view is clouded, poor picture weather through the haze and mist. But the Gardens are 22 acres of manicured lawns and flowers along a hillside in Otty. The monkeys are creating a problem by sorting through the trash bins and leaving a mess. They wouldn't last past dinner in Congo!
I haven't written much about the weather in these hill resorts. Kodaikanal was in the lower 50s at night. Otty seems colder. I did not bring clothes along for such weather. Luckily, I have a wind breaker. In Otty, I use two blankets to stay warm at night. Returning to Pondy will be a system shocker. Asking for a tea, I find I've been drinking Orange Pekoe tea.
At the entrance to the Gardens is a sign, "Hebron School - Lushington Hall." Then below, "Co-educational, boarding school for children aged 5 to 18 years." This is the present home of Hebron School. I don't take the time to walk the hill to the campus.
Mudumalai Tiger Park is not in the hills, so the weather is mild, not cool. The 321 sq. km park is grasslands to semi-evergreen forests. The park actually is split over two Indian States. Mudumalai is in Tamil Nadu and Bandipur National Park is in Karnakata. Odd that they would name the park differently simply because it spreads over two states. But, they have. There are all sorts of promises as to what we will see. Driving slowly we see two large herds of Chitals (spotted deer), together around 80 deer. What a sight!
There is not a room to be had in the simple lodging in Mudumalai, so we continue on into Bandipur. Also, nothing! Exiting the park, we find lodging at MC Resort, a group of 20 rooms in a U with a large yard between the buildings with trees. Their main emphasis is taking groups into the parks on safaris. Tomorrow, rather, we will be returning to Pondy.
As we enter the room, no number on the door, a small gecko moves behind the beds. Oh, I have missed my little friends.
As night sets in electricity is supplied. Here, it is sporadic, on off, as the night progresses. Hot water? Not possible. Back to the cold shower.
Dinner is offered 7:00-9:30. Milan has asked for as table and 2 chairs to be set outside. Here we sit, enjoying the mild evening.
Mosquitoes! I have plenty of lotion. During the night, we will have a mosquito coil lit in the room. It smells like incense but is deadly on the flying creatures. A gecko chirps during dinner but is silent in the room. Dogs bark at passing wild pigs. Hope that doesn't keep up all night!
We are off for Mudumalai Tiger Reserve. First, we look out over the vallies from
Doddabetta Peak, 2633 m, the highest peak in all of South India, and visit the Govy Botanical Gardens in Otty. Both of these are spectacular. From the peak the view is clouded, poor picture weather through the haze and mist. But the Gardens are 22 acres of manicured lawns and flowers along a hillside in Otty. The monkeys are creating a problem by sorting through the trash bins and leaving a mess. They wouldn't last past dinner in Congo!
I haven't written much about the weather in these hill resorts. Kodaikanal was in the lower 50s at night. Otty seems colder. I did not bring clothes along for such weather. Luckily, I have a wind breaker. In Otty, I use two blankets to stay warm at night. Returning to Pondy will be a system shocker. Asking for a tea, I find I've been drinking Orange Pekoe tea.
At the entrance to the Gardens is a sign, "Hebron School - Lushington Hall." Then below, "Co-educational, boarding school for children aged 5 to 18 years." This is the present home of Hebron School. I don't take the time to walk the hill to the campus.
Mudumalai Tiger Park is not in the hills, so the weather is mild, not cool. The 321 sq. km park is grasslands to semi-evergreen forests. The park actually is split over two Indian States. Mudumalai is in Tamil Nadu and Bandipur National Park is in Karnakata. Odd that they would name the park differently simply because it spreads over two states. But, they have. There are all sorts of promises as to what we will see. Driving slowly we see two large herds of Chitals (spotted deer), together around 80 deer. What a sight!
There is not a room to be had in the simple lodging in Mudumalai, so we continue on into Bandipur. Also, nothing! Exiting the park, we find lodging at MC Resort, a group of 20 rooms in a U with a large yard between the buildings with trees. Their main emphasis is taking groups into the parks on safaris. Tomorrow, rather, we will be returning to Pondy.
As we enter the room, no number on the door, a small gecko moves behind the beds. Oh, I have missed my little friends.
As night sets in electricity is supplied. Here, it is sporadic, on off, as the night progresses. Hot water? Not possible. Back to the cold shower.
Dinner is offered 7:00-9:30. Milan has asked for as table and 2 chairs to be set outside. Here we sit, enjoying the mild evening.
Mosquitoes! I have plenty of lotion. During the night, we will have a mosquito coil lit in the room. It smells like incense but is deadly on the flying creatures. A gecko chirps during dinner but is silent in the room. Dogs bark at passing wild pigs. Hope that doesn't keep up all night!
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